Tech Support... for morons, bellends and dipsh*ts


This is the alarm panel by the hall door.


HKC alarm… The bane of electricians lives… Except their bank accounts!


It’s one of the most common panels. I reckon her best option is to txt landlord he will have code might not reply till Monday. In the meantime muffle the sounder with paper towel and some tape or such like as best she can. Sometimes it’s possible to guess the code by studying the buttons for wear or by trying most obvious codes .


Default engineer code 04567 this is changed on installation but sometimes not try it.


And what if she has an actual intruder :drooling_face:


Just punch in 04567 on its own?

No “resest” or # symbols or nuffink?


Yeah just punch in code straight and press :ballot_box_with_check:


Thanks boss.

She’ll try that in the morning. She doesn’t want to mess with it now, in case it sets the alarm off.


Ask him to disconnect the alarm, sorted. Talk about luck


Grand it won’t set alarm off but the more attempts you make the longer you will have to wait to try a new code. Post if any issues and I will check in :+1:


Cheers chaps.

If using the code above doesn’t work and the landlord doesn’t know the alarm code, is the only other option getting an electrician out? Or should it be an alarm technician in particular?


Alarm tech best option tell him no user code and get price first


Napper - is there any real need to have alarm tech out every year? What is average life span of an alarm?


No I wouldn’t bother really only need them out to replace batteries in outside bell box and in panel.these batteries will signal when near end of life usually around 5year but have seen them average around 7/8 years. If your getting alarm guy out for moving a contact or such issue it’s probably worth getting batteries replaced at the same time as the real cost is callout and the price of the batteries is at most €40/50 quid.


Lifespan of panel varies less technical panel lasts a lot longer. Usually 10/15 years with a couple of battery replacements.Big savings can be made on Monitering pending who you contract but you can monitor it yourself the panels can be programmed to ring any number in succession e.g. It will ring you, no answer it will ring next number say neighbour or relative and so on so forth usually up to 5 different numbers till it gets answer and it is possible to respond to alarm from phone. Obviously if it’s Moniterd by you there’s no monitering charge or contract.


I think we can garner from your repsonces you may have been an alarm installation technician in this life or the last .I hope you weren’t an eircom one .A more incompetent crowd you couldn’t find .Their broadband install techs however are excellent.
We had the eircom crowd out twice . Their shock sensors , magnetic sensors are useless . Charged us €80 per unit . And still they were hyper sensitive & would go off on their own .I wouldn’t advise anyone to get Eircom watch.


Electrical contractor. Never a lover of domestic burgler alarms, if you are getting one I recommend the most common basic alarm and keep it simple no add ons and no maintanence contract.
You get a discount from insurance company up to 10% for having alarm, but experts say they will not pay out if alarm not on or not working at time of burglary.who would of thought !


Brought them back, there are two versions and the android one was not on sale. Got decent Sony headphones so. :+1:


Somebody here maybe who has worked for sky or JJF might be able to help .
I’ve had Wi-Fi issues with sky Qbox . Basically the mini box in bedroom kept saying it wasn’t connected, I think JJF had similar issues.
Recently I got new Smart Tv with Netflix and Youtube apps on it, So rather than rely on the Sky WiFi to watch them , I decided to use TP Link to create a hard wired set up . Now in settings on TV or skyQ box it confirms I have a setup that is wired.
Now every time I try and watch Netflix or youtube on hard wired TV after about 5mins the internet stops working and internet light starts flashing orange on sky’s hub.
In settings on TV it then shows connection from TV to router with a tick but an X from router to internet, eventually internet comes back on .
It’s like the hard wired setup is pulling to much power through the router and it can’t cope(if that’s possible)
I had hoped the hard wired setup would have been better , now it seems to have made the situation worse.
Would a stronger router solve the problem, or has anyone any idea what is happening.


Swap the sockets were you have the tp links plugged into . This solved an issue with me before where the wired broadband dropped dramatically.

Tp links could be dodgy too . Unfortunately it’s a process of elimination here .

Also have you tried a speed test ? You need a certain minimum broadband to watch stuff like that , at least 10mg .

Reading that again would I be correct in thinking you have issues both with wireless & non wired ?